A journey to Buscalan to get a tattoo from Apo Whang Od is more than just a trip; it is a pilgrimage to the heart of Kalinga culture. At over 100 years old, Whang Od is the oldest living mambabatok (traditional tattoo artist), keeping a centuries-old tradition alive in the mountains of the Cordillera.
The Origin of Batek
Traditional Kalinga tattooing, known as Batek, was historically earned. For men, it was a symbol of bravery and a mark of a warrior. For women, it was a sign of beauty, elegance, and maturity. The process involves using a thorn from a pomelo tree, a bamboo stick, coal, and water as ink, which is hand-tapped into the skin.
Today, while the context has changed, the cultural importance remains. Getting a tattoo here means becoming part of a living history.
Getting to Buscalan, Kalinga
The road to Buscalan is an adventure in itself. From Manila, it requires a long overnight bus ride to Bontoc or Tabuk, followed by a public jeepney ride winding through steep mountain roads to the jump-off point.
Once at the turning point, you will need to hike down and up the scenic rice terraces for about 30 to 45 minutes to reach the secluded village of Buscalan.
Getting to the Village Proper
When you arrive in the village, you will be welcomed by the local Butbut tribe. The community is deeply involved in managing the influx of travelers, ensuring that everyone has a local guide and a homestay to rest in after the arduous trek.
Getting a Whang Od Tattoo Signature
While Whang Od still tattoos visitors, she now primarily does her signature three-dot tattoo, which represents her, her grandnieces, and the continuation of the lineage.
Her grandnieces, Grace and Elyang, have been fully trained in the art and perform the larger, more intricate traditional geometric designs.
Getting Chosen for the Tattoo
Once your turn comes, you can select from a board of traditional patterns—such as the python scales for strength, the centipede for protection, or the traveler design. Whang Od will then tap her three-dot signature to complete your piece.
Is it Worth Visiting Whang Od?
Absolutely. Beyond the physical tattoo, the experience of sitting before a living legend, listening to the rhythmic tapping of the bamboo, and looking out over the misty Kalinga mountains is something you will carry with you forever. It is an unforgettable connection to Filipino heritage.
