If you’re travelling through the expanse that is North East India, then there is a decent chance that you will go through Guwahati at some point. This big bustling city is not just the capital of Assam, but also the gateway to the indigenous rhinos, the beauty of Shillong, as well as the wettest villages on earth.
The good news here is that while it is a big bustling Indian city, it still has that North East Indian serene vibe that you get pretty much anywhere north of Siliguri, my least favourite place in India. This is the Guwahati Guide.
Table of Contents
What the Guwahati?
Guwahati is the largest city in Assam and the biggest urban centre in North East India, with a population of around one million people. Located on the banks of the Brahmaputra River, it is the commercial and transport hub of the region, connecting Assam with the rest of India and the neighbouring states.
The city has a long history, with the area being an important centre of trade, religion and politics for centuries. Today it is a mixture of old and new, with ancient temples, busy markets, shopping centres and modern restaurants all sitting side by side.
Like much of North East India, Assam has also experienced decades of political unrest and insurgency. Groups such as the United Liberation Front of Asom (ULFA) fought for Assamese independence, while other movements focused on regional identity, autonomy and political rights. Although the situation has improved significantly compared with previous decades, the history of insurgency remains an important part of understanding the region.
What is there to do in Guwahati?
Guwahati is an extremely important place when it comes to Hindu temples, and this is the main thing you see when you visit. Aside from that, there are islands connected by the river, as well as some decent museums. Alas, we found out the hard way foreigners are not allowed in the army museum!
Kamakhya Temple
Kamakhya Temple is the most famous attraction in Guwahati and one of the most important Hindu pilgrimage sites in India. Located on Nilachal Hill, the temple is dedicated to Kamakhya, a goddess associated with fertility, menstruation and the power of creation. Unlike many Hindu temples, there is no traditional idol of the goddess here. Instead, the main shrine centres around a naturally occurring stone yoni, representing the female power of the universe. So, yeah people come here to try and get pregnant.
You will also see pink goats everywhere. These though are not LGTBQ+ free spirit goats, nor are they there for cuteness. This is a temple where they still do animal sacrifices. Therefore if you’re of the PETA persuasion then watch what day you go. Traffic to get here is horrendous, but it is worth it.
Umananda Island
Umananda Island is a small island located in the middle of the Brahmaputra River and is reached by ferry from Guwahati. The island is home to Umananda Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, and offers a peaceful escape from the chaos of the city.
Known as the smallest inhabited island in the world – apparently. Part of the joy here is the journey, with us getting to witness a fight!
Majuli Island
Majuli Island is one of Assam’s most famous destinations and is one of the largest inhabited river islands in the world. Located in the Brahmaputra River, it is famous for its monasteries, traditional arts and unique culture.
Although it is not directly in Guwahati, many travellers use the city as a starting point for visiting Majuli, making it one of the region’s must see destinations.
Assam State Museum
The Assam State Museum is the main museum in Guwahati and covers the history and culture of the region. Exhibits include traditional clothing, sculptures, weapons and displays about the different communities of Assam.
Weirdly has a Starbucks, which was actually kinda cool.
Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary
Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary is one of the best places near Guwahati to see the famous one horned rhinoceros. While Kaziranga is the most famous wildlife destination in Assam, Pobitora is much closer to the city and has a high density of rhinos.
For travellers with limited time, it is a great option to experience Assam’s wildlife without travelling too far.
Eating and drinking in Guwahati
Being a biggish North East Indian city means that the food here is bloody brilliant! With everything from high end restaurants serving western and fusion food to mom and pop shops and a very good street food Guwahati scene. I will give street food Guwahati its own article later.
Assamese cuisine overall is great, with lots of influence from West Bengal, Bangladesh, Sikkim and Nepal also being present in the city. And yes, this means momo everywhere! As well as pani puri.
We also found some spectacular bars doing great cocktails, with Levitate and The Socialite particularly floating the YPT boat! Imagine cocktails that taste like Indian street food! Yep, they went there.
Levitate Rooftop Restaurant
Levitate is one of the better rooftop restaurants in Guwahati, offering good food, cocktails and views over the city. We ate there twice and really enjoyed it. Good FYI is that they take cards too! No Amex mind.
EXORO The Rooftop Pub
EXORO is one of the most popular rooftop bars in Guwahati and offers a livelier atmosphere with cocktails, food and music. This is basically where the cool kids go.
The Socialite
My favorite bar in not just Guwahati, but heck the whole region. Good food, inclusive of nachos, as well as a crazy cocktail list that is inspired by Indian street food.
The Root Barrel
The Root Barrel is a more relaxed rooftop bar with a pub atmosphere, offering drinks, food and a good place to spend an evening without the louder nightlife atmosphere.
Eight The Rooftop Restaurant
Eight is one of the more upmarket rooftop restaurants in Guwahati, with a focus on food, drinks and views. It is a good option if you want somewhere a little more polished.
Getting in and out of Guwahati
Guwahati is not just extremely strategically located, but also has a very important train station, as well as a newly built airport. The airport will be much better when it is actually finished to be fair, but it already offers important connections.
We personally took the Siliguri to Guwahati train, which was somewhat picturesque to say the least. Whether you personally can handle a second class Indian train is your call.
Flights from Guwahati
Guwahati Airport connects Assam with the rest of India and is the main air gateway into North East India.
Guwahati to Delhi
The flight takes around 2 hours 30 minutes and is the main connection for travellers coming from northern India or connecting internationally.
Guwahati to Kolkata
The flight takes around 1 hour 15 minutes and is one of the busiest routes from Guwahati.
Guwahati to Mumbai
Flights take around 3 hours 15 minutes to 3 hours 45 minutes depending on the service.
Guwahati to Bengaluru
The flight takes around 3 hours and connects Assam with southern India.
Guwahati to Bagdogra
The flight takes around 1 hour and is useful for travellers connecting with Siliguri and North Bengal.
Trains from Guwahati
Guwahati Railway Station is one of the most important railway hubs in North East India and is the main overland gateway into Assam.
Guwahati to New Jalpaiguri and Siliguri
The journey takes around 6 to 8 hours depending on the train. This is the main rail connection between Assam and North Bengal.
Guwahati to Kolkata
The train takes around 18 to 22 hours depending on the service.
Guwahati to Delhi
The journey takes around 27 to 35 hours depending on the train.
Guwahati to Mumbai
The train takes around 45 to 55 hours depending on the route and service.
Guwahati to Dibrugarh
The journey takes around 9 to 12 hours and connects Guwahati with eastern Assam.
Guwahati to Agartala
The journey takes around 10 to 15 hours and connects Assam with Tripura.
Overall
You don’t go to Guwahati to go to Guwahati, you go there as a bridge to the rest of the region. That though is not to say it is not without its charms.
And to be fair, after a few days in the boonies of India, you will be grateful for the bright lights and subtle nightlife of this provincial capital.
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